The Greenway
A beautiful 46 kilometre cycle, divided into six sections, between Dungarvan and Waterford, taking in panoramic scenery and towns like Kilmacthomas and Kilmeaden.
You can start anywhere on the Greenway and turn back at any point you like. Bicycle hire is available in Dungarvan and at towns along the route. This is also available as a walking tour.
There are spectacular views of the Comeragh Mountains, the Copper Coast and Dungarvan Bay. It is a journey through time across 11 bridges, three viaducts and one 400 metre tunnel! The old Kilmacthomas Workhouse can be visited en route.
The Quays
Ships loaded with grain were leaving Youghal all the time. The ships were heavily guarded by the Royal Navy patrolling up and down the river, and by the Army at the quays.
People from Waterford were trying to cross the river to get to Youghal where there was at least a Soup Kitchen. There were riots on the Waterford side. Some riots led to bloodshed.
Most fishermen could not afford to pay for a licence and so could not fish. Boats were pawned. In some cases, the Quakers redeemed the boats but the licence still had to be paid.
There were loads of fish in the sea but without a licence, the boats could not go out. And people starved.
Auxiliary Workhouse 3
The Owen chemist houses many dark secrets. It began life in medieval times as a castle with a slip way down to the sea. During the Great Famine it was one of six Auxiliary Workhouses, each taking five or six hundred people in addition to the main workhouse which had a capacity for about 1,100 people. The population of the town dropped from almost 13,000 to just over 4,000 in one generation.
During the Famine a couple visited Dr. Ronayne at the workhouse, hoping he would buy the corpse of a dead child for dissection. He refused and called the police. It turns out it was not their own child. They were desperately trying to feed their own children.
Youghal's Dark Past - Moll Goggins Corner
The legend has it that Moll Goggin waited for her lover to return home from the sea. She waited in vain, got pneumonia or consumption and died.
Legend tells us she was seen here on a night of the full moon, staring out to sea. She was always wearing a long dark dress and had something like a bright shawl wrapped around her shoulders.
She would stand there, staring out to sea and then – Suddenly – she would vanish, into thin air, as if she was never there. The corner is named after her.
The truth of the story comes from the Lighthouse. Let us make our way there.
Ahern's Boatyard Site
This is the, final part of the Famine Trail, the site of Ahern’s boatyard. A boat called the Triumph was built here and she brought passengers from all over Ireland to America to start a new life.
The Triumph became well known for one detail – on one voyage to America only one passenger died and she had been ill before she embarked.
Many of the other boats had so many deaths on board that they were called “coffin ships”.
You have now reached the end of the trail and you are back at the start. 7,000 steps, 7 kilometres, one step for each person lost to Youghal through death or emigration. Remember them!
Quaker Meeting House
Quaker Meeting House. When the Quakers first came to Youghal they met in a private house but later bought the land to build their own Meeting House in 1681.
In 1912 the building became a Carnegie Free Library and later a social club house. Today it is in private hands.
The Slob Bank
Stones were dragged from Quarry Road which you will pass later to create this massive bank along the river.
Appropriately enough the Relief Commissioners told the Duke of Devonshire to pay for this Scheme of Work as he claimed to own the river bed as far as Capel Island. The Duke paid!
Today the Slob Bank offers stunning views of the estuary, provides a wonderful habitat for a wide variety of wildlife including otters, kingfishers, and many types of wading bird.
The slob (or mud) was used to create a dense solid brick which was hugely popular for building. First the mud was gathered in moulds and heated to a high temperature to remove bits of twigs and other impurities.
Youghal Brick from the slob here was known all over the world. Remains of the many brickworks can be seen along the river bank.
Dromana House
Dromana House is one of Ireland’s ancient hidden wonders, a period property perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the strikingly beautiful, unspoilt river Blackwater. It is surrounded by a 600 acre privately owned estate with numerous woodland and garden walks bursting with rare plants and wonderful wildlife.
Just one hour from Cork, 40 minutes from Waterford City and 2.5 hours from Dublin, Dromana offers year-round self-catering accommodation options including: The East Wing, which can sleep up to 8; and The River Duplex for smaller groups up to 4 people, and is dog friendly.
Dromana started life as a Fitzgerald Castle and gradually evolved into the present fine house it is today with spectacular river views and a history going back over 800 years. The bridge into the estate, from the Cappoquin side, is spectacular with a very romantic story.
It was here the famous Olde Countess of Desmond was born. She is, according to legend, supposed to have lived until she was 140 years old and died after falling out of a cherry tree! It was here that Daniel O'Connell forged his plan to win Catholic Emancipation.
Ballyvergan Marsh
There is a bird hide on the R630 just off the N25. There you can experience the amazing wildlife . Some of the marsh has mainly sea water while the more inland section has mainly freshwater. At night 4 species of bats can be seen. There is a book - "The Wildlife Wonders of Youghal" by Pat Smiddy, with beautiful photographs is n the town Library and may be available if you are lucky!
Claycastle Beach
Claycastle beach is simply an extension of the Front Strand. In fact the beach extends for a few more kilometres out as far as Redbarn. There is a fine boardwalk between the beaches. Look carefully at low tide you can see the old medieval road clearly at the Redbarn side.
Claycastle has a huge car park between the Claycastle and Redbarn beaches. There too you may notice a mound of earth called "the Butts". This was used by the army for over three hundred years for target practice.
The island in the bay is called Capel Island. The Capelli were an Italian family and the word itself refers to Chapel. The family became the "Supple" family.
Auxiliary Workhouse 2
Today home to Kehoe’s Auctioneer’s, this building was owned by the Fisher family, prominent Quakers. Anna Fisher was a young Quaker who witnessed the horrors of the famine in Youghal. She helped train women from Youghal how to make lace and that way earn some badly needed money.
Anna Fisher married and went to live in Dublin with her husband Richard Haslam. She became a leading Suffragette. A park bench in St. Stephen’s Green commemorates the work of the Haslams. The Fisher family had a mill in Kinsalebeg where there were food riots. However, it was accepted that the Fishers were very fair employers and the anger of the mob was not addressed at them. Just the fact that food was being exported from Youghal at a time when people were starving.
At the rear of this building, there was a mill and several outhouses. They were converted into workhouse accommodation for approximately 600 people. There are two doorways, paupers had to use the side door into the building.
The Alm's House
Richard Boyle, 1st Earl of Cork, built this building, the oldest surviving alms-house in Ireland, in 1643.
It was built with the promise to provide alms for retired soldiers; the pledge was later extended to include their widows.
In recent years alterations and modifications were made to the building, which now functions as homes for senior citizens
Mall House / Town Hall
This is the Town Hall. In the 19th century, there was a belief that property should look after poverty, that rich people should provide work for poor people.
During the Famine, a group of men met here to decide how best they could help starving people in Youghal and the surrounding areas. These men were called the Relief Commissioners. They decided on 5 schemes of work – the Court House, the Slob bank, the Bridewell, a watchtower on Capel Island and the road to Killeagh.
Three of these schemes of work can be seen on the Famine Trail. Angry crowds gathered around the Town Hall demanding that the Relief Commissioners do something about the plight of the starving people.
The Royal Navy was called in to protect the ships leaving Youghal with food. The army was called in to prevent rioting. Some of the riots took place here.
Blackwater Cruise
“Maeve Og” is a 28 foot half decker fishing boat converted to tourism , captained by Tony Gallagher who will regale you with stories from the river and the people who lived on and off it. His voice alone will enchant you.
The cruise leaves from Nealon' s Quay pontoon, and travels north upriver past the Rhincrew and the remains of Templemichael Castle, you pass the historic Molana Abbey on your left and then enter a tranquil area of natural beauty, as yet unspoilt where herons , egrets and all sorts of birds are startled by your presence.
The cruise last about 90 minutes , subject to weather and tides.
The boat is moored at Nealon's Quay ( the car park behind the Tourist Office). It is worth ringing Tony before you set off as the weather is important. Maeve Og can also be booked for private groups.
You will quickly understand why the 'Blackwater was often called the "Irish Rhine".
Youghal Clock Gate Tower
Youghal Clock Gate Tower is the most visible landmark in the centre of Youghal’s Main Street and since 2017 has become a ‘must see’ visitor attraction in the East Cork region. Built in 1777 as a gaol, this iconic building has opened its doors again, not as a grim prison, but as a place to explore tales from its past.
Visit is by way of a guided tour with ‘storytellers’, who bring the unique story of 700 years of history to life, in a one-hour visit, told over four floors. The highlight of the tour is accessing the rooftop platform for stunning views of Youghal Bay.
Tickets available online or at Youghal Heritage Tours ( see under Shopping)
Fota Wildlife Park
This is a wildlife park where a wide range of animals have considerable freedom to move around. A large number of wild animals are born in Fota, including scimitar horned ornx, bison, and many species of monkeys.
The island has a curious and very mild climate, well protected from harsh conditions and has an amazing variety of plants. The island has its own train station.
Fota House, the grand mansion which was once the centre of this estate can be visited and is in excellent condition. There is a cafe there.
The family motto can be seen on the gates to the estate - "Boutez en Avant" which means to kick people out of your way! It is also the name of a town in Cork - Buttevant which was owned by the same family.
Mall Beach
Youghal is quite unique in that it has a beautiful beach in the centre of town. The Mall Beach is nestled between Youghal Visitor Centre and Youghal Town Hall, on The Mall.
It is here that the "Bean Uisce" (water witch)surfaces at Halloween in a time honoured ceremony performed by local druids and wise women. She is usually paraded through town before returning to the water.
Enjoy safe swimming and beach fun!
Parking is nearby, turn left at the Tourist Office and there is a car-park in front of you.
The Soup Kitchen
The Society of Friends, also known as the Quakers, operated a Soup Kitchen from this place. Money was sent to Ireland from many parts of the world to help alleviate the effects of the famine.
The Quakers set up Soup Kitchens in most towns. With one pound sterling you could make enough soup to feed 400 people.
The recipe was : one pound of peas, one pound of pearl barley per gallon of water. Salt and pepper might be added. If bread was available it too was added.
There were three large vats in the Soup Kitchen, one to dispense soup, one being cleaned and one being prepared. The Soup Kitchen was in constant use.
The RIC Barracks
The RIC Barracks was originally a private house belonging to a wealthy Quaker family , the Harveys.
Later it became a Royal Irish Constabulary Barracks. It was the scene of a dreadful accident during the Irish Civil War when a sentry on duty accidentally discharged his rifle and the bullet killed two innocent passers by.
Front Strand
Front Strand Beach is a sandy beach beside Youghal town in County Cork.
It is most suitable for families, picnics and walking as there are plenty of amenities close by. There is also a public car park and toilet facilities are provided. Turn left after passing the Lighthouse (coming from town). The beach is on your left.
The College
Thomas Fitzgerald, Earl of Desmond, founded the College in 1464. It gained international fame; a papal Bull of Pope Innocent VIII refers to the College as University of the City of Youghal.
In 1602, Sir Richard Boyle bought the College from Sir Walter Raleigh, and rebuilt the College as his residence.
He added the five circular turrets that surround the College and walled the gardens in 1641. Major rebuilding and renovation was carried out to create the 18th Century building we see today.
Market Square
Market Square is the area between the Tourist Office . Moby Dick’s pub and the Court House and takes in Barry’s Lane . There was an older Market Square in the town in Medieval times.
To day that area is near the post office. In the centre there was a crucifix , and the lanes on either side were called North Cross Lane and South Cross Lane. North Cross Lane still survives but the Market Square is now near the Tourist Office
Moby Dick's Pub
The Moby Dick Lounge Bar contains memorabilia of the filming here of John Huston’s version of Melville’s Moby-Dick, in which Youghal masqueraded as New Bedford, Massachusetts.
Youghal's Dark Past - Joe's Ghost
On a dark and ghostly night people in Youghal swear they notice a man shuffling along the quay wall, a duffel bag on his back, a woollen cap on his head. They know it is Joe, he has a small limp. He heads toward the Clock Gate and turns down towards Harvey’s Dock. Silently.
When he appears a woman screams “JOE! JOE ! I’m here! I’m here!” He does not hear her. She runs after him screaming his name. His wife ran over, screaming his name, screaming for him to stop but when she got to where he was – he was gone! Vanished!
And then someone shouted “ he’s in Grattan Street” and she ran towards the street and spotted him going up Meat Shambles Lane and then again he vanished and slowly she realized he was never coming home. He was just saying goodbye. And she sat down on the road and began to cry helplessly.
They never recovered the bodies from the ship but sometimes people swear they have seen the crew in the streets of Youghal, with their little duffel bags, heading home.
The Presentation Convent
This was the Presentation Convent school. Here young women were taught to make Youghal Lace which soon became world famous – it was worn by popes, queens , the aristocracy and anybody who valued exquisitely crafted garments and who was not worried about the price.
Specially sought after were wedding gowns and christening robes which became family heirlooms.
The Magazine
According to historical sources, an urban tower house known as the Magazine was situated on the front of the property now located at 54 North Main Street.
This building was supposedly occupied by Oliver Cromwell when he wintered his army in the town in 1649-1650.
St. Mary’s Collegiate Church
Dating back to the early 13th century, it is one of Ireland’s oldest parish churches still in use and with the original roof still in place.
It is a fascinating church to visit - the iconic Boyle monument, the Masonic symbols.
This medieval Church also hosts the magnificent interpretive installation “Voices of St. Mary’s Collegiate Church “ which offers a visitor experience truly unique. With a choice of three types of tour, each unique, informative and entertaining, the visitor’s interest is captured immediately. Guests to St. Mary’s Collegiate Church may choose his/her own manner of tour or indeed undertake all three. The tours consist of:
– 1. A personally guided tour – experienced and knowledgeable guides take their guests through the Church, highlighting the gems!
– 2. A self guided audio tour – Visitors share the emotional reunion of the imaginary Roe family and they talk about the history of the Church and their own family memories.
– 3. Interactive information displays: Visitors follow a timeline from 1220 to to-day and also see the exciting action and finds of the Church’s archaeological dig. A visitor may also weave a thread in a special Visitors Rug.
Of course, weather permitting, guests at St. Mary’s may also undertake the The Graveyard Trail with interesting information points along the route leading you along part of the medieval town walls with stunning views across Youghal Town and estuary.
St Mary's Parish Church
St. Mary’s Parish Church. There are two St. Mary’s Churches in Youghal. One is called St. Mary’s Collegiate Church. The second is usually called St. Mary’s Parish Church.
It is the first Catholic Church to be built in the dioceses of Cloyne since the Reformation. With the Penal Laws in force, Catholics could not build churches.
By the 1790s the laws began to be relaxed and the Catholics began a major church building program. It originally had a spire but this was taken down for “health and safety” reasons.
Church Street
Church Street is the most unusual street in the world! It has examples of architecture form the 13th to the 20th century all in one street.
The church was built in the 13th century, Shalom House was renovated in the 20th century.
All around are examples of the other centuries. Myrtle Grove was previously the house of he Earl of Desmond and probably dates back to the 1450s. The Alms Houses were built in the early 17th century by Richard Boyle.
Youghal's Dark Past - Fata Morgana
Strange phenomena have been seen from the quays in Youghal. They are called Fata Morgana – this is what happens when a mirage is reflected in the sky – an image of the ground below.
This has been documented many times in the town annals.